Q: Steve, those wheels are fantastic! We've been waiting for someone to do this sort of thing for years. How are they made?

A: I have been trying to figure out how to manufacture this type of a wheel for years.  It started with the original idea that Motomags were made.  I was 12 years old. I saved every penny from my paper route, $150.00, for my first bike, an original Redline BMX
with Motomags, My father would not even let me carry the money to the bike shop.  Everyone at that time thought that I was crazy.  I had the high-end lightweight BMX bike with heavy-duty Motomag wheels!  I still took first in my class at the races on Sunday!  Anyway, that is where the initial bug bit me.  I did nothing until about 1996 when I was riding my mountain bike at South Mountain Park.  At the time the "Harley Revival" was picking up steam. As I rode from my house to South Mountain I noticed that many Harleys had custom Mag wheels and all of the off-road bikes (Mountain, BMX and dirt motorcycles) had spoked wheels. So I originally decided to make lightweight mountain bike wheels, since mountain bike popularity was growing rapidly.  The biggest problem with Mag wheels on a mountain bike is the weight-to-strength ratio.  The wheels would have to be light enough and at the same time strong enough.  The very first wheel that I designed was  five-spoke: straight tubes attached to a center hub.  The rim was a standard Aaraya rim with attachment at the spoke joints.  This was efficient and lightweight. Unfortunately, it was not strong enough and ended up in the trash.  So I began toying with the idea of making the first Custom Mag Wheels for the GT Dyno bikes. About 1998 I made many drawings of different patterns that eventually would evolve into the design that you see on my bike.

As far as the manufacturing process goes:

I start with a plate of 6061-T6 aluminum, it goes to the table saw where it is cut into square pieces that are about 1" larger than the outside diameter of the wheel fixture that is set up. This allows an area around the square plate that can be clamped to the fixture on the CNC.  I locate the square piece on the fixture and drill the center holes (the holes that mount the plate/Mag to the hub).  Theses holes are used to help hold the plate to the fixture. At this point just about any pattern can be cut. To cut a pattern, a drawing must have been made of the pattern that is to be cut.  The drawing is then converted to a tool path program that the CNC machine will use to cut the aluminum.  This program includes all of the different tools that will be needed to cut the pattern, large cutters for removing a lot of material, and a small cutter for tight radius and finish work.  I have done all of the artwork and programming for almost all of the patterns that you have seen in that image: "All Styles. Then, depending on the pattern to be cut, the program is dumped to the computer then sent to the CNC machine.  A quick check on the CNC machine to see if there are any blatant errors and then, press start.  About an hour later you have the pattern cut into the aluminum.  We take this part and send it to the polishing corner where it will be sanded and polished to a mirror finish.  The hub adapter, if it is a rear and/or the front hub is installed and the outside rim installed true to the hub axle. It then goes back to polishing for final a touch-up and then the whole assembly gets clear coated.

Q: I've bought a fair amount of aluminum stock in my time, and I'm always shocked at how expensive it is. I haven't priced a CNC mill, lately, but I know that they're extremely pricey, and an hour on one is an expensive proposition. Add in an hour or two of hand-labor finishing and polishing, more time fitting it with a rim and hub, and you're talking some serious expenditure to make one of these wheels. What's the final price tag on a set of these babies? Does it vary according to style, or are they all priced the same?

A: Good Question,
Aluminum has just recently jumped in price; that hurt. Raw plate aluminum is approximately one half to one third of the cost of the finished product. The machinery is expensive 18" X 28" bed on a 3 axis at $200K approx. In general, shop rate is $55.00 - $75.00 per hour. Machining is another third of the cost to produce this type of product. To machine different patterns does effect how long the piece will stay on the machine, and in turn, does affect the overall price. For example, the first wheel that I designed took approx. 30 min. to cut , start to finish; as they have evolved, they only take about 20 min. to cut. The one-of-a-kind and special designs usually take longer to cut - the Spider Web pattern takes about an hour, this, of course, will increase the cost. Polishing is done by a good friend, and it does require a lot of hand work. Although the majority of the cost is in material and machining, polishing is approximately another third of the cost as well. We don't own the polishing company, but we do have plans to purchase the equipment and bring it in-house. This would give us quicker turnaround without having to ship parts out and back. Final assembly is completed in house at this time. The rear requires installing the hub adapter (7-speed Nexus is the only one available at this time) and the front hub manufactured by us (which uses Shimano internals) to be mounted to the plates. The rims (Sun Rinle) come to us without any holes, and have a brushed finish. The rim is press fit to the plate, then we true the rim to the Plate/Hub combination. The rim is attached using very small button head screws (approx 10) The valve stem hole is located and machine-drilled. The whole thing is de-burred with a final touch-up to the polish, and it is ready for tires and tubes. At this point we do not offer tires or tubes. I just wanted to mention that this is the reason for the contest, We are aware which patterns take longer to machine, if these are the most popular then the pricing should reflect that; by the same token, lower pricing will reflect the quick easy-to-machine patterns. I feel that we should have one price for all sets of wheels. Disc-brake front and 7-Speed rear, all patterns. Until more feedback from the public has come in, prices will vary from set to set and quantities ordered. The set that you have seen in the pictures of my bike should retail for approx. $625.00. We are entertaining the idea of making a mold and casting wheels, this would bring the cost down; exactly how much we do not know. The other issue is that most of the people that we have heard back from love the idea of billet wheels, When we cast them, there will be a different texture that will require a different finishing technique, and cast material is not nearly as strong as CNC-machined plate. The only other thing that would affect the cost is quantity. Let's say that I knew there was a demand for approximately 500 wheels. That would bring the cost for a set, down from the $600.00 range to the $450.00 range. So the demand significantly impacts the price. I know that this product is going to sell like hotcakes, so here at the shop we are spooling-up to manufacture the higher quantities and, in turn, bring the customer cost down.

Q: From the .MPG video clip of you popping wheelies I was able to deduce a couple of things. These wheels have to be lightweight, or you wouldn't have been able to hoist that front with such ease. The fact that the wheel didn't turn into a taco upon landing shows that it's strong and rigid. What do the wheels weigh in the 26" size, and how does the strength compare to that of a conventionally- spoked wheel?

A: The set of wheels that you see in the video: the rear wheel, 7-speed hub with adapter, rim, tire and tube = 15 lbs. The front, hub, rim, tire and tube is approximately 9 lbs. As for the strength, I have personally done the 200 lb. Gorilla test. That would be me jumping up and down on a prototype that's lying against a curb. I was unable to bend the wheel. I have ridden these wheels over curbs and through the desert without a failure to date. Also, upon completion of this set I dropped the wheel (so that it would land on edge, and again so that it would land as flat as possible) from head height to the concrete floor, the result was not enough damage to stop us from putting the wheel on to a set of rims. We are conducting some further testing (jumps and landings: 4 to 5 foot drop; the results are not in yet. I must warn anyone that uses these products uses them at their own risk, unlike an airplane If they were designed to fly you would see them in the air. And as the pilot if you crash you are responsible. They are not designed to fly. Although this may change soon, as we are building 20" versions of all these designs.

Q: Ah yes- 20"! I think you'll find that to be extremely popular, since that size crosses into so many different biker demographics. You've got your Lowrider crowd, your BMX bunch, as well as a lot of kustom kats who go for that size. I was pleased to see that you're also planning to offer them in 24", which is one of my personal favorites. Do all your designs scale down to those sizes, and will they all be available in all three sizes? If so, how much will the pricing differ? I guess you save a little bit on aluminum stock, at least.

A: Yes to all of the questions you had; you are correct. To sell to all bike markets was the original intent, hence the reasoning for qualifying which styles are the most desired by all riders. We plan to offer all designs in the 20" 24"and 26" sizes. Re-sizing is relatively simple from a programming standpoint. As far as price goes, the 20" should be approximately half of the 26" price, but do not quote me on that yet.

Q: As this is an interview, and all about quotes, let's just say that half the 26" price, isn't official, or engraved in stone yet. I'd be surprised if it were exactly half, since all the individual cost factors are unlikely to scale-down in the same ratios. Still, I'll bet the 20" guys are jumping for joy right about now. Somewhere in the vicinity of $300 and change must seem like a fabulous bargain for fantastic wheels like these. Suppose someone wanted a set of 20"-inchers right away. Could you take care of them, or would they have to wait a while?

A: We want to sell wheels!!!! There will be the same wait for 20" or 26", The reason that I started with 26" is: I built 26" wheel because I have a bike that needed 26" wheels and I have the tools and the money to make it happen. When introducing a product to the market, from a manufacturing standpoint, you need to know what the highest cost of manufacture is going to be. In this case it would be the 26" wheel. If there is a demand for 20' wheels that is greater than 26 " I will take orders!!

The other thing to understand is that, and you are semi-aware of this, there will be a lead time of approx 2-3 weeks before delivery of wheels to people that need wheels that do not require hubs (that is to say a customer that would like to use thier own 7-speed Nexus) and a 3-4-week lead time for every one else. This lead time is uncured due to a few details that need to take place prior to shipment i.e. the final assembly that need to take place, as well as the fact the hub for 20" wheels needs to be finalized and comprehensive testing take place that will be completed this weekend.

As close as we are to let loose on these products, we have to confirm a few items prior to making hundreds of wheels, so I do not have many on the shelf, I can manufacture hundreds in one week's time. But I will not manufacture hundreds of wheels that no one wants to buy. What style and size has the greatest appeal? Basically who is sending checks and giving up CC numbers? And what exactly can I offer that will standardize production so that I am not making 10 of these one day and 10 of those next day. So it is important to narrow the field to capture the market share, as that happens we will offer the other styles or if we see a drift to something that would naturally fit (style or new product line) I would certainly work in that direction.

Q: Thanks for your time, Steve; that was a fun interview. Do you have any closing remarks for us?

A: The only other thing that I feel needs to mentioned is the affiliations and people that have worked with me to make this happen.  I've been working with Phat Cycles, and would like to thank both Seth at Phat Cycles, and Gary Silva at 3G Bikes.  

I would like to also thank Peter, Ryan and Curly (Rage Cycles) for all of their support and technical expertise, Tim, Craig and Rick at MME, and last but not least, I could not have made this happen without the help from Rita (Executive Producer).
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Steve Hutchison
Designer of Wild Wheel Werks'
Kustom Billet Wheels

The BikeRod&Kustom Interview
by Jim Wilson
Left: Steve Hutchison Pops a Wheelie, In an image from an .MPG Video Clip.

Below Right: The extensive range of designs WildWheels may be had in.
Q: Steve, those wheels are fantastic! We've been waiting for someone to do this sort of thing for years. How are they made?

A: I have been trying to figure out how to manufacture this type of a wheel for years.  It started with the original idea that Motomags were made.  I was 12 years old. I saved every penny from my paper route, $150.00, for my first bike, an original Redline BMX
with Motomags, My father would not even let me carry the money to the bike shop.  Everyone at that time thought that I was crazy.  I had the high-end lightweight BMX bike with heavy-duty Motomag wheels!  I still took first in my class at the races on Sunday!  Anyway, that is where the initial bug bit me.  I did nothing until about 1996 when I was riding my mountain bike at South Mountain Park.  At the time the "Harley Revival" was picking up steam. As I rode from my house to South Mountain I noticed that many Harleys had custom Mag wheels and all of the off-road bikes (Mountain, BMX and dirt motorcycles) had spoked wheels. So I originally decided to make lightweight mountain bike wheels, since mountain bike popularity was growing rapidly.  The biggest problem with Mag wheels on a mountain bike is the weight-to-strength ratio.  The wheels would have to be light enough and at the same time strong enough.  The very first wheel that I designed was  five-spoke: straight tubes attached to a center hub.  The rim was a standard Aaraya rim with attachment at the spoke joints.  This was efficient and lightweight. Unfortunately, it was not strong enough and ended up in the trash.  So I began toying with the idea of making the first Custom Mag Wheels for the GT Dyno bikes. About 1998 I made many drawings of different patterns that eventually would evolve into the design that you see on my bike.

As far as the manufacturing process goes:

I start with a plate of 6061-T6 aluminum, it goes to the table saw where it is cut into square pieces that are about 1" larger than the outside diameter of the wheel fixture that is set up. This allows an area around the square plate that can be clamped to the fixture on the CNC.  I locate the square piece on the fixture and drill the center holes (the holes that mount the plate/Mag to the hub).  Theses holes are used to help hold the plate to the fixture. At this point just about any pattern can be cut. To cut a pattern, a drawing must have been made of the pattern that is to be cut.  The drawing is then converted to a tool path program that the CNC machine will use to cut the aluminum.  This program includes all of the different tools that will be needed to cut the pattern, large cutters for removing a lot of material, and a small cutter for tight radius and finish work.  I have done all of the artwork and programming for almost all of the patterns that you have seen in that image: "All Styles. Then, depending on the pattern to be cut, the program is dumped to the computer then sent to the CNC machine.  A quick check on the CNC machine to see if there are any blatant errors and then, press start.  About an hour later you have the pattern cut into the aluminum.  We take this part and send it to the polishing corner where it will be sanded and polished to a mirror finish.  The hub adapter, if it is a rear and/or the front hub is installed and the outside rim installed true to the hub axle. It then goes back to polishing for final a touch-up and then the whole assembly gets clear coated.

Q: I've bought a fair amount of aluminum stock in my time, and I'm always shocked at how expensive it is. I haven't priced a CNC mill, lately, but I know that they're extremely pricey, and an hour on one is an expensive proposition. Add in an hour or two of hand-labor finishing and polishing, more time fitting it with a rim and hub, and you're talking some serious expenditure to make one of these wheels. What's the final price tag on a set of these babies? Does it vary according to style, or are they all priced the same?

A: Good Question,
Aluminum has just recently jumped in price; that hurt. Raw plate aluminum is approximately one half to one third of the cost of the finished product. The machinery is expensive 18" X 28" bed on a 3 axis at $200K approx. In general, shop rate is $55.00 - $75.00 per hour. Machining is another third of the cost to produce this type of product. To machine different patterns does effect how long the piece will stay on the machine, and in turn, does affect the overall price. For example, the first wheel that I designed took approx. 30 min. to cut , start to finish; as they have evolved, they only take about 20 min. to cut. The one-of-a-kind and special designs usually take longer to cut - the Spider Web pattern takes about an hour, this, of course, will increase the cost. Polishing is done by a good friend, and it does require a lot of hand work. Although the majority of the cost is in material and machining, polishing is approximately another third of the cost as well. We don't own the polishing company, but we do have plans to purchase the equipment and bring it in-house. This would give us quicker turnaround without having to ship parts out and back. Final assembly is completed in house at this time. The rear requires installing the hub adapter (7-speed Nexus is the only one available at this time) and the front hub manufactured by us (which uses Shimano internals) to be mounted to the plates. The rims (Sun Rinle) come to us without any holes, and have a brushed finish. The rim is press fit to the plate, then we true the rim to the Plate/Hub combination. The rim is attached using very small button head screws (approx 10) The valve stem hole is located and machine-drilled. The whole thing is de-burred with a final touch-up to the polish, and it is ready for tires and tubes. At this point we do not offer tires or tubes. I just wanted to mention that this is the reason for the contest, We are aware which patterns take longer to machine, if these are the most popular then the pricing should reflect that; by the same token, lower pricing will reflect the quick easy-to-machine patterns. I feel that we should have one price for all sets of wheels. Disc-brake front and 7-Speed rear, all patterns. Until more feedback from the public has come in, prices will vary from set to set and quantities ordered. The set that you have seen in the pictures of my bike should retail for approx. $625.00. We are entertaining the idea of making a mold and casting wheels, this would bring the cost down; exactly how much we do not know. The other issue is that most of the people that we have heard back from love the idea of billet wheels, When we cast them, there will be a different texture that will require a different finishing technique, and cast material is not nearly as strong as CNC-machined plate. The only other thing that would affect the cost is quantity. Let's say that I knew there was a demand for approximately 500 wheels. That would bring the cost for a set, down from the $600.00 range to the $450.00 range. So the demand significantly impacts the price. I know that this product is going to sell like hotcakes, so here at the shop we are spooling-up to manufacture the higher quantities and, in turn, bring the customer cost down.

Q: From the .MPG video clip of you popping wheelies I was able to deduce a couple of things. These wheels have to be lightweight, or you wouldn't have been able to hoist that front with such ease. The fact that the wheel didn't turn into a taco upon landing shows that it's strong and rigid. What do the wheels weigh in the 26" size, and how does the strength compare to that of a conventionally- spoked wheel?

A: The set of wheels that you see in the video: the rear wheel, 7-speed hub with adapter, rim, tire and tube = 15 lbs. The front, hub, rim, tire and tube is approximately 9 lbs. As for the strength, I have personally done the 200 lb. Gorilla test. That would be me jumping up and down on a prototype that's lying against a curb. I was unable to bend the wheel. I have ridden these wheels over curbs and through the desert without a failure to date. Also, upon completion of this set I dropped the wheel (so that it would land on edge, and again so that it would land as flat as possible) from head height to the concrete floor, the result was not enough damage to stop us from putting the wheel on to a set of rims. We are conducting some further testing (jumps and landings: 4 to 5 foot drop; the results are not in yet. I must warn anyone that uses these products uses them at their own risk, unlike an airplane If they were designed to fly you would see them in the air. And as the pilot if you crash you are responsible. They are not designed to fly. Although this may change soon, as we are building 20" versions of all these designs.

Q: Ah yes- 20"! I think you'll find that to be extremely popular, since that size crosses into so many different biker demographics. You've got your Lowrider crowd, your BMX bunch, as well as a lot of kustom kats who go for that size. I was pleased to see that you're also planning to offer them in 24", which is one of my personal favorites. Do all your designs scale down to those sizes, and will they all be available in all three sizes? If so, how much will the pricing differ? I guess you save a little bit on aluminum stock, at least.

A: Yes to all of the questions you had; you are correct. To sell to all bike markets was the original intent, hence the reasoning for qualifying which styles are the most desired by all riders. We plan to offer all designs in the 20" 24"and 26" sizes. Re-sizing is relatively simple from a programming standpoint. As far as price goes, the 20" should be approximately half of the 26" price, but do not quote me on that yet.

Q: As this is an interview, and all about quotes, let's just say that half the 26" price, isn't official, or engraved in stone yet. I'd be surprised if it were exactly half, since all the individual cost factors are unlikely to scale-down in the same ratios. Still, I'll bet the 20" guys are jumping for joy right about now. Somewhere in the vicinity of $300 and change must seem like a fabulous bargain for fantastic wheels like these. Suppose someone wanted a set of 20"-inchers right away. Could you take care of them, or would they have to wait a while?

A: We want to sell wheels!!!! There will be the same wait for 20" or 26", The reason that I started with 26" is: I built 26" wheel because I have a bike that needed 26" wheels and I have the tools and the money to make it happen. When introducing a product to the market, from a manufacturing standpoint, you need to know what the highest cost of manufacture is going to be. In this case it would be the 26" wheel. If there is a demand for 20' wheels that is greater than 26 " I will take orders!!

The other thing to understand is that, and you are semi-aware of this, there will be a lead time of approx 2-3 weeks before delivery of wheels to people that need wheels that do not require hubs (that is to say a customer that would like to use thier own 7-speed Nexus) and a 3-4-week lead time for every one else. This lead time is uncured due to a few details that need to take place prior to shipment i.e. the final assembly that need to take place, as well as the fact the hub for 20" wheels needs to be finalized and comprehensive testing take place that will be completed this weekend.

As close as we are to let loose on these products, we have to confirm a few items prior to making hundreds of wheels, so I do not have many on the shelf, I can manufacture hundreds in one week's time. But I will not manufacture hundreds of wheels that no one wants to buy. What style and size has the greatest appeal? Basically who is sending checks and giving up CC numbers? And what exactly can I offer that will standardize production so that I am not making 10 of these one day and 10 of those next day. So it is important to narrow the field to capture the market share, as that happens we will offer the other styles or if we see a drift to something that would naturally fit (style or new product line) I would certainly work in that direction.

Q: Thanks for your time, Steve; that was a fun interview. Do you have any closing remarks for us?

A: The only other thing that I feel needs to mentioned is the affiliations and people that have worked with me to make this happen.  I've been working with Phat Cycles, and would like to thank both Seth at Phat Cycles, and Gary Silva at 3G Bikes.  

I would like to also thank Peter, Ryan and Curly (Rage Cycles) for all of their support and technical expertise, Tim, Craig and Rick at MME, and last but not least, I could not have made this happen without the help from Rita (Executive Producer).